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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.